Just a wee update for all my fans after an extremely eventful weekend here in Canada.
After having packed 5 people and enough food for 70 into a 6-seater car on Friday evening, we proceeded to drive the somewhat uncomfortable 120 miles from Quebec city to Tadoussac on the Côte Nord, each with an apple crumble precariously balanced on our respective knees. We stopped halfway for some light refreshment (MacDo) and discovered that in North America, a large portion is actually enough to feed a whole country, then continued on our way through the wilds to Tadoussac. On our arrival, we found that the Germans had got there first, and lovingly laid out their beach towels, ahem, bags, on all of the best beds in the house, leaving us Brits to the mattresses and leaking water beds on the floor in the living room. However, our stiff upper lips and mustn't grumble attitudes got us through the night (if I didn't have back problems before, I do now). Right on cue, 07.45 the next morning, and who should appear but the Germans, washed and dressed and setting a table for an orderly and punctual breakfast. We Brits went to the café for bacon and eggs (tiredness prevalent from the late night/ early morning party), cursing the Germans for waking us up.
Anyway, enough German bashing methinks. All of the German assistants here in Québec are lovely, and I am usually a great champion of German culture, except when rudely awoken by unnecessary but orderly voting over which type of Brötchen to have for breakfast. One of the Canadians even remarked "You're very organised, aren't you?" to which the Germans replied "Vell yes, we are German, ja" which had us all in stitches.
When everyone had managed to drag themselves out of bed, we all got wrapped up to go out on the St. Lawrence river and see if we could spot whales. Having been advised to layer up, I went out in 3 t-shirts, 2 jumpers, a coat, leggings and trousers, hat, scarf and gloves. We were then given waterproof trousers and fisherman's jackets on the boat - we were all wearing so many layers it made moving practically impossible, we all looked like the Michelin Man. It still wasn't enough. After 3 hours out on the water, my hands, feet and face were all numb and the rest of my body was heading the same way!
However, I would quite happily have come back with hypothermia and frostbite because seeing so many whales, and so close to the boat, was an experience I will never forget. We had booked a zodiac trip, so off we went in a large motorised rubber dinghy and within 10 minutes we were surrounded by beluga whales, bobbing around the boats, evidently curious. I never expected to see so many on one trip, everywhere you looked there were white backs rising from the water, it was incredible. We went a bit further out and ran into a pod of minke whales, who obligingly flicked their tails in the air for photos and came so close to our small boats you could have reached out and touched them. Even further out (we were all shivering by this point) and we came across a sleeping humpback whale. They sleep on the surface, bobbing along quite serenely but they are absolutely HUGE. Yes, I know, they are whales (duh) but until you see one you don't quite appreciate the scale.
We started to head back to the port, because we had gone quite far, and looking at the scenery and the cliffs, it was easy to imagine what it must have been like to be amongst the first Europeans to come to these shores, confronted by impenetrable forest and hostile wilderness looming from above. It made quite an impression! Even now, the forests and wilderness stretch for hundreds, if not thousands of miles with no human habitation. The scale of everything is so much bigger and more formidable out here than back at home.
Safely back on dry land, and a hot drink was an essential not a luxury! Then we headed back to the Maison to help make dinner for 70. 3 million sandwiches and chopped vegetables later, and we had a pretty impressive buffet set up and a great evening in store. It's great to meet up with the other assistants from time to time, Brits, Irish, Canadians, Mexicans, Chinese and Germans and just chat about our experiences, about anything and nothing. Particularly for people who are on their own in their towns, its nice to know there are others in the same boat! It's not like in Europe where you can just get a train or bus (or even these days a cheap flight) quickly and easily - here the distances are so vast and public transport so non-existant, you can feel completely cut off, particularly if, comme moi, you live in a village that doesn't even have a grocery shop!
After a hefty meal of traditional British sandwiches (soggy cheese and tomato) we all made our way into the village to go to the bar at the youth hostel. We got into an interesting debate with some less-than-sober Parisians who were expounding the many virtues of metropolitan French, and complaining bitterly about their inability to make head or tail of Québecois. At which point I felt quite smug, as my French, although much improved, is still nowhere near the standard of a native speaker, but I find I have few difficulties now in understanding the Québecois accent and expressions. Yay for me!
The one downside to the whole weekend - I appear to have caught a cold from 3+ hours on a freezing river/ocean. Still, it gives me a chance to go to the Pharmacy tomorrow and attempt to explain and obtain the québecois equivalent of a Lemsip. Ever the optimist!
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